Jan 2009

They way back down the scary hill was a lot less hairy than the ascent, mainly because I was sat in the middle, with my i-pod on, pre-occupided by the little kid eating bread and chucking crumbs out the window. Any over-protective mothers should bring her children here and see what these critters are encouraged to do. We have frequently seen whole families riding along on one moped - the littlest one asleep in the mothers arms at the back, the dad in the middle steering, and another little toddler perched on the front, gleaming with pride. Not a helmet in sight. Still, they must be doing something right because India has the second largest population in the world.

After my disastrous toilet stop at Calicut bus staion - where my sunglasses fell down the deep, dark hole; plop! and they were gone.. there was no way I was sticking hand down there! *sigh* - we had a quick wander and went for lunch. Due to the limited number of restaurants we were relieved to find a busy haunt and plonked ourselves down, only to be quickly ushered into the 'family room' where women are allowed, oops.

I went for the set veg meal and Andy went for the 'safe' Chicken biryani. The waiter arrived with my banana leaf plate and an assortment of rice, curries and accompaniments.. with only my fingers as a shovel. It looked and smelt wonderful but the name on the bottled water was 'Good Luck'.. not sure if this was a sign or not! ? I shovelled it in non-the-less.

Back on the train to Mangalore, and this time it was a bit more luxurious - real air conditioning for once! I found out that the penalty for using the emergency cord without 'reasonable and sufficient cause' was a 'fine of Rs1000 and/or imprisonment up to 1 year'. Could come in handy if I get annoyed with Andy!?

Managalore is the largest city on Karnataka's coast, but we found it less hectic that the other large cities. After loosing 3 litres of water through perspiration from trapsing around we came to conclusion that the Lonely Planet maps are, well, rubbish! Luckily, two lovely lads who studied science at a nearby school gladly showed up to our destination: St.Aloysius College Chapel, and for once not asking for anything in return. (Gran, you will be glad to know that these boys are big fans of Charles Dickens, in particular David Copperfield.)

From the outside the church looked very non-descript, but the inside was like stepping into a painting, not to mention a comforting, cool break from the sun. The walls and ceiling were adorned with brilliant frescoes, there was an abundance of statues and all very colourful. Catholicism roots in Mangalore date back to the arrival of the Portuguese in the 1520s and the city is dotted with churches like these. We attracted a few sniggers from the local school girls so we departed to keep the peace. There is a scary head figure of the painter outside the church, Antonio Moscheni who created this masterpiece from March 1899 til August 1901. His hairline had an uncanny resemblence to Andy's. Photos to follow.

We spent the next few hours at the river sitting in Sultan's Battery, the only remnant of the fort of Tipu Sultan. Andy's train seat to Goa has already been confirmed but I am still waiting to here if I have been allocated. So while we wait I will tell you a bit about Indian culture...

Religion, Family and Status - A quick overview of Indian Culture:

Recently there has been an attack on a group of women in a pub in Mangalore. The perputrators argue against this new 'pub' culture and do not like the move towards most Westernised society. Religion and culture run deep in Indian society and here are three tradtions which still hold true in many areas;

- Family lies at the heart of Indian society. For the majority of Indians the idea of being unmarried and without children by one's mid-30s is unthinkable. (Oh dear!)

- Mainly in rural India, they believe the caste you are born into largely determines your social standing in the community. Vaste is the basic social structure of the Hindu society. Living a righteous life and fulfilling you dharma (moral duty) raises your chances of being born into a higher caste next time round. (There's hope for me yet!)

- Hinduism is practised by approximately 82% of India's vast population. The number seven has special significance in Hinduism. There are seven sacred Indian cities, each of which are major pilgrimage centres. There are also seven sacred rivers.

We had great hopes for today having spent all yesterday travelling from Kochi up in the mountains to Sultanbatheri from where we would explore the Wayanad Wildlife Park today. Waking up in a modern featureless hotel devoid of any other toursits apart from ourselves we soon realised we might have chosen the wrong location from the guide book!

However we arranged a guide who took us in his jeep to the wildlife park. Outside the park we spotted our first monkeys, who appeared very friendly even jumping on to the jeep. Also saw a posionous 'Boa' snake, thankfully the guide saw it first as to us it just looked like a tree branch. The park is over 400 sqkm and apparently only has 10 tigers so the odds of seeing one where slim! Driving along the tracks we saw countless Spotted Deer which although nice where nothing special. The tour guide who came in our jeep kept saying 'Bambi, Bambi' every time a deer came in sight was a but disconcerting because the batteries in our camera were running out and we didnt really want to waste it on deer in case Tony the Tiger came along. We drove around all the watering/bathing holes that the elephants used but to no avail, there were signs of a tiger though with his fresh footprints in the sand. At this point we stopped and the guide went for a walk towards some rustling in the bushes, wasn't sure this was the best idea but we followed cautiously, and found nothing.

Towards the end of the trip the guide was informed of elephant movements ahead and we came across 7 elephants with a baby washing and drinking from a nearby lake. They can become very aggressive if you go near them so we kept 100m away and took some great photos. It was amazing to see elephants wild and free and just to watch them. On the way back we gave a lift to a disabled tribal woman, Gem had to sit in the back with her and she said she said scary red teeth.

In the afternoon our guide took us to some caves which although disappointing in themselves did provide us with some much needed exercise to climb to the top of the mountain they were on. The views on top were great as it was the highest mountain in Kerala (Everest won't be a problem!). To celebrate reaching the top we opened our pick'n'mix selection of Indian sweets. Unfortunately though we seemed to have bought giant spicy gobstoppers that we couldn't break, bring back Woolworths I say!
Sultanbatheri was definetly not on the tourist trail and made for a nice change to escape to a traditional mountain village.

More of Gem's silly facts, this time about elephants:

- Elephants travel in matriarchal packs, and gestate for 22 months
- Elephants can communicate over a distance of 50km
- Elephants can either be right-handed or left-handed
- Elephants can find their home, years after they've left
- Elephants know when they are close to dying and make their way to a river-bed for nature to take it's course
- Elephants bury their dead and grieve.

As I guarded the bags and Andy collected our tickets to Calicut I saw an interesting sign in the station about concessions. If I was blind I could get a consession of 50%, or maybe if we pretended Andy was retarded or had non-infectous leprosy we would get 75% off! Only joking, we wouldn't do that... I'd have to end up carrying all the bags! Ha!

We still hadn't quite sussed out where to stand on the platform because as soon as the train pulled up we were always running to find our carriage.. and these trains are long; and the platforms are even longer, especially when you have 20kg on your back. It's times like these that I wonder whether that extra pot of moisturizer was really necessary.

Eventually we found First Class. Ok, Ok, so we're not slumming it with the locals in the 2nd tier but we have to think of Andy's long limbs! First Class is basically a booth where we can house our bags, stretch those long limbs and have a read. There is a little fan and a mirror but apart from that no extra frills, but it is the best way to get around this country. I did however see a little mouse dash under the seat as we waited for our stop. When I told Andy that Mickey had come to see him his feet shot skyward almost touching the roof - I never knew he was so flexible!

A family of four joined us for the ride and as usal gawped and smiled at us. The little girl was a gem in her floral dress, spangly bracelets, silve anklets and little gold, dangly earrings which matched her mother's but smaller. If we saw a 10year old girl in England with so much bling we'd cringe - but on this little one it was almost regal.

Getting off the train at Calicut was like rush hour at Oxford Circus. Only this time we were the annoying tourists getting in everyone's way. Luckily we got to the bus station just in time to grab a few samosa's and get on the bus for a 3hr trek up to Sultanbatheri. Judging by past experience of being bumped and jostled in the back of a bus we opted for the prime spots right behind the driver. There is never room to stretch out on these busy buses so I was squidged up to the window with a bag, then Andy squidged in with another bag, and then another chap joined the seat. Cosy.

Now, I have been on some scary-ass rollercoaster rides in my time, and I can honestly say I have loved them all... especially when you loose your stomach. But as soon as I finished my book and looked up I didn't realise this was a runaway bus ride! I don't see why we had to spend most of our time on the wrong side of the road, always overtaking. Were we part of a bus race or did the driver just need the toilet? The sharp, windy bends on the way up are enough to make Lewis Hamilton cautious. Why did we choose these front seats again? Thankfully buses seem to get priority here and you can all rest assured we got to our destination in one piece.. although a little bit greyer.

This Wildlife Park better be worth it!

Ironically the sign above the bus drivers head read:

HAPPY NEW YEAR - will be happier when all traffic rules are obeyed.

EXACTLY!!!!!!

Today we had planned to travel from Alleppey (sad at having to leave the boat behind) up the coast to Kochi. We travelled by bus which was a first for us, after trying to buy a lottery ticket instead of a bus ticket and helping out a couple of clueless Americans we boarded our bus. Conditions were cramped but for 50 pence each for a 1.5 hour journey we couldn't complain!
It was a pleasant change to view life in India from a bus rather than by travelling by plane / train. The most notable sight was an elephant being driven along the highway on the back of a very small lorry. I'm sure this was far from what the elephant had planned to be doing!

The bus staions are not tourist friendly places and the locals stare in more amazement than normal as we walked through. We quickly swapped over to a tuk tuk for short trip then onto a ferry before arriving in Kochi.
When we arrived in Kochi it was clear to see the Portugese and British Raj influence on the area, although most of the buildings were now in a poor state.
After checking in at the hostel and refuelling (chicken biryiani has become a favourite) we walked along the coast ticking off the sites. There were many fishermen along the coast using an old chinese technique that involved a large net in the water connected to a long length of wood that pivoted in the middle. After 5mins the fishermen would pull on ropes which would force the nets to rise out of the water and fish in the nets removed. As we walked along a fisherman shouted over to us and thinking he needed help pulling his ropes down we want over. After viewing the dismal catch so far we helped raise they nets out of the water to find we had helped catch....... nothing! It soon turned out that the fishermen only wanted money from us apparently because the tsunami of 2004 had massivley depleted fish stocks, gave them a pound.

We spent the afternoon on what was described as a magical beach and it would have been had it not had every Indian family for miles around sat on it, unfortunately it was their bank holiday.
Dinner was at a lovely little place called 'Tea at the Teapot' where Gem had here first cup of green tea since leaving home, I also squeezed in some chocolate cake, nice to have something without spices! The evening was spent planning, our planned itinerary proving too ambitous to keep to. We decided to give a visit to tea plantations a miss in favour of a trip to a wildlife park a safari. Not a hard decision you might think but Gem does like her tea!
Whilst planning the trip a hawk was perched on a tree behind me and Gem took great pleasure in teasing me that it was swooping down to attack me so planning ended early!
Next stop was to be Calicut by train which apart from a mouse in our compartment was uneventful!

Answers To Gem's Silly Quiz:

1. Snowy - Ice Cream of course!
2. Auto Cadets - Mechanic. (Not sure if i'd like a cadet fixing my car though)
3. Smilie - Dentist. You should have all got that one!
4. Love Juice - Juice shop. What else?
5. Devil Medicines - Pharmacy. Would you like the devil to cure you now?
6. Miss World - Sewing shop. Random
7. Lube Shop - General Store. Although, we didn't look out the back.
8. Vanessa - Ladies inner garmets. Hhmm.
9. Poopally - Milling shop. what?
10. Seeman. Wedding Shop.

Full marks? Well done!

Hiring a house-boat can be a bit of a minefield here due to their popularity and high cost. We knew it would be our biggest expense in India so we didn't want to get ripped off. Therefore we owe a lot of gratitude to our guesthouse owner, Aji, who set us up on a private 24hr trip on "Orieole". Our driver, Anjit, helped us aboard the floating hotel which was larger than I expected; we had a spacious living/dining area, private double bedroom and a little bathroom which was the first one to have toilet roll, bonus! (It's the little things!) Out the back was the motor and a little kitchen where we had our own chef to prepare the meals and another old guy for good measure. Anjit steered the boat from the front and we were off on the green pathway! Woo hoo!

[DISCLAIMER:
It really is hard to put into words just how spectacular this experiece was, so if it comes across a bit soppy just check out the photos - when I eventually find a fast and efficient broadband connection... sorry! ]

As we settled into the prime viewing cushions at the front we were greeted with a fresh, chilled, lime juice and a basket of fruit. I was hoping Andy would fan me with a palm leaf to add to the experience - no such luck! We were expecting to see lots more house-boats as we got deeper into the backwaters but our remoteness was mainly met with the local communities who lived amongst the clay banks. It seems they lead the most idyllic lifestyles just washing and bathing all day, milking the goat or going for prayers. I am sure, however, they must all have the same worries as the rest of us?? ... " What shall I cook today?", "How did these clothes get so dirty?", "Does my bum look big in this?" etc etc. Maybe not?

When we stopped for lunch a little boy named Arun came bounding up to the boat with his prized cricket bat. My immediate thought was 'don't give him any money' but I felt ashamed when all he asked for was a pen - Imagie if the only thing you desired was something to write with! Luckily I had some balloons (thanks Beck) to give to him and his sisters, which he was very grateful.. and then he asked for more, and some chocolate and some coins.. there's just no pleasing some people! Ha!

One way these families make a bit of money is to have a waterside shack selling provisions, and one mention of prawns and I was practically swimming to store to get a look. Some of you may know I am quite partial to a prawn or two, well, my eyes pooped out of my head when I saw these monsters. They called them Tiger prawsns but they were more like giant Langoustine with a tiger print. Andy did not have the heart to deny me this pleasure and because my mouth was salivating so much I didn't even bother to barter. Twelve Pounds for 2 prawns - expensive by anyones standards. They saw me coming eh!

Think of the brightest grass green colour and you'll come close to the backdrop of paddy fields we were looking at. I was snap happy as I waved at every child on the sidewalk - a smile is certainly the language of the world. Unless they were laughing at me because I have to pay to see this view when they get to live in it. Judging by the calls and the waves I think these people are just happy.

We moored up at sundown and got to walk amongst the villagers while supper was being prepared. The deet came out to deter the midges but they still seemed to have a feast on Andy. Our (golden) prawns were served with dinner along with a mountain of other dishes, all traditional food from Kerala; beetroot salad, Dahl, coconut vegetables, Chappatti, Chicken curry. Oohhhh yes, I had died and gone to prawn heaven! We played cards into the night and retired to our boudoir.

The sound of the nearby temple woke us at the crack of dawn, it was an eery noise almost like a cow being strangled but also very calming a bit like Deep Forest tunes. Our room was stifeling so we couldn't wait to get out and admire our last few hours of paradise. We had a spot of breakfast and I was tempted to tamper with the motor so we could have a few extra hours, but you always have to wake up from dreams. *sigh*

Ok, enough said. xxx